You should also pump the clutch pedal occasionally to stop the friction plate sticking to the flywheel. If you are storing inside or have access to a power outlet, a battery tender plugged in for the duration will ensure the battery stays charged and healthy and all electronic devices active. Batteries were the most sensitive. I heard mention of the Fairgrounds storing your car all Winter, but you had to leave a battery and key with them. I have been told by an Exide representative that batteries last longer when cold. Drive the car for a couple of miles so the stabilizer can make its way through the fuel line. But I just leave it in an unheated garage.
Anyways, these batteries in question here are the traditional lead-acid car battery, which are way too heavy and inefficient for shuttle use. Bleed all the brake lines until fresh fluid comes out. The Rolls V8 first year was seized solid from rust. Vacuum the inside, because dirt can attract and hold condensation. You want to keep the comprehensive coverage as that protects you in the event of theft.
Best would be to rent storage space. Servicing the car prior to being laid up tends to be worthwhile also. There was mouse droppings all over the engine on the manifold, but not a single sign of mice inside. Inside beats outside, but it is the preparation that will make the biggest difference come spring. If the car is carbureted, run the engine until the carb is dry. And these tips are what worked best for these many years. Modern fuels tend to go off very quickly and in the past you would have had to drain the fuel and replace it with paraffin to prevent rust in the tank.
Do such things really exist? But the most popular, likely and affordable method lies between the two. I'm not too happy with the idea of leaving it in the snow and having to see that outside my window everyday. If you can't afford a storage unit I'd suggest laying on a good coat of wax, good, bad or no paint. You also could change the oil prior to storing it. Convertibles are a lot of fun to drive, but more than most vehicles, they have their limits. Had I not been lazy, I probably could have duct taped the tear in the tarp and gotten another month out of it. I wish I could help you out with storage.
Steel garages are okay, but suffer from more severe temperature fluctuations unless they are insulated. Spraying old engine oil or applying branded anti-corrosion preparations to the car's vulnerable surfaces, will help protect the car's structure from the effects of dampness such as this. If it is powered by an internal combustion engine, buy fuel stabilizer and use according to directions. The best place to leave a car is a dry, airy barn. Use a battery tender to counter parasitic drain. Get free delivery on all tires and wheels when you choose a TireBuyer installer in the continental U. Out of the snow, and let the wind blow the snow away from under the car.
Hell go out once a week or so and turn it around unless it is covered with three feet of snow. Avoid impervious, plastic covers, as they hold condensation. These are all good tips. Same-day delivery is available in select areas. There are also the enclosed type that use a small electric air pump to keep it blown up like a balloon.
An impervious floor is important, be it concrete, asphalt, brick or wood. To hang … or not to hang If your tires are mounted on the rims, hanging them from hooks is a great storage option. If the car is to be stored in a garage, alongside a window, bear in mind that strong sunlight remember that? We wish both you and your tires many long years of good health. These seem to keep critters out of the interior of the vehicle. Used engine oil, even if it's not that old, usually has acids and contaminants that can slowly etch or damage smooth engine surfaces, like bearing journals, lifters, etc. While running the engine up to full temperature, switch on all the lights, this not only exercises the charging systems, but will also dispel any dampness that has formed within the light units, possibly saving you the expense of having to re-silver headlamp reflectors.
I am unsure about the battery storage though. But I suspect you were thinking more along the lines of a cover of some type. I do not recomend this if you hate the smell. In addition to closing it up soundly, cover the tailpipe and consider investing in. Put moth balls in a can inside the car, in the trunk and under the hood in the air filter. If you want to protect the bottom against majority of the snow, put a tarp or two underneath it extending to just the bottom door panels, strapped firmly to the body or whatever you can attach it to.
If your vehicle is stored outside, cover the tires to protect them from direct sunlight. I would only add two things. If you can't afford that, having an old car probably isn't a great idea. I wouldn't leave doors open for lengthy periods, in case local mice decide to take up residence, but opening them for a few hours at a time, and leaving the windows down an inch or so, will help ward off dampness and musty odours. How to lay up a car. When it came out of storage, it was heavily damaged. If you wrap it well enough barely anything should touch the body except for the actual air moisture, which is still problem enough on its own.